Tomato bisque

I vaguely recall watching a history show on Campbells soup. Even more vaguely, I think I heard them say it was considered a 'luxury' to have fancy soup whenever they wanted, just by opening a can.

Naaa... soup has been around as long as there's been humans and fire.  It's an easy way to use almost anything and make something that's good human-fuel.   Now, GOOD soup and FANCY soup, that's a different story.

Herself and I were talking soup, and the question came up (as it does) on what is the difference between seafood chowda and seafood bisque.  One might think it obvious, but boy what a rabbit hole that turned into.

We all know what chowda is.  Lumpy, creamy, potatoes, satisfying.  Seafood, chicken-corn, whatever it is we know a bowl of chowdy when it lands under our spoon.

What about bisque?  Well, first of all, it's got a Frenchy name so we know it's fancy soup for the rich folk.  The kind who have 'staff' and a newspaper butler and a trained soup expert in the kitchen.

Research suggested to me the biggest factor that sets bisque aside is how it's thickened, and how it's treated once cooked.  Bisque does not use cornstarch or a roux to thicken the soup, but rice.  That's right.  A small amount of rice is added while the soup simmers and is then cooked till mushy.  Then the second thing happens... the soup is blended till silky smooth.  The rice breaks down and the bisque (whatever kind it is) becomes that rich luxurious bowl of privilege.

Here we have the meal I made for the family last night.  Tomato soup and grilled sandwich.  The old classic comfort food every kid in America has had every Winter at least once.

This duo though, it's been kicked up. Done fancyfied. Over the top one might say.

Allow me to describe the process behind this 'simple' bowl of tomato bisque.

First, assemble the things and stuff.  Amounts depend on the end desired.

• Carrot
• Celery
• Onion
• Garlic
• Butter
• Salt/pepper
• Dry white wine
• Chicken stock
• Canned tomatoes (No salt added)
• Cream or half/half
• Rice, any kind
• Sugar (teaspoons)
• Basil, Thyme, Aleppo pepper, parsley

Now, the technique.  Most of a day is needed to make this, although nothing is in itself difficult or complicated.  It just needs to be done the right way for the right length of time.

Set your soup pot to the heat and add a knob of butter. Rough chop the onion, celery, and carrot and get them sizzling.  Much heat,  Heat is good here.  Try to get some brown happening if you can.  Don't sweat the knife work as it will all get blended near the end.

While that is going on under your watchful eye, peel and chop two cloves of garlic.  Nice big ones.  Set them aside for the moment.

When the mirepoix is well cooked and beginning to brown a touch, drop in the garlic and stir (This dish calls for quite a bit of stirring). Let that garlic cook in the veg for no more that 60 seconds or so, while stirring all the time.  We can't let the garlic burn or the soup is ruined.

At 60 seconds, pour in a cup of white wine, and get back to stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot.  Keep the heat up, and cook/stir until the wine is almost all gone.  The veg is moist, but no longer swimming.  This gets rid of the alcohol, releases a ton of flavor, and reduces the wine to concentrate all those flavors.

With the wine reduced, pour in a quart of chicken stock and all your canned tomatoes.  Go ahead and lightly season the pot but don't sweat it too much.  The seasoning will happen again another three or four times.

Turn the heat to medium low and cover the pot.  Set the timer for an hour, but that is just a stir point.  This begins the long simmering time where the veg is made soft and the flavors build.  Stir once in a while, but mostly leave it alone right now.  Plan on about three hours total simmer time for this stage.

After two hours of simmer/stir, taste for seasoning and sweetness.  The tomatoes will need some sugar to counter their tartness, but only the cook can say how much.  Start with just a teaspoon or two.  Everything needs time to marry and bloom between adjustments, so give it a good 20 minutes between tastings.

At this two hour mark, add the rice.  About 4-5 tablespoons.  Not too much, but it's not hyper-critical.  Stir it in, cover the pot, walk away.  The rice will be simmering in the soup for at least an hour, with occasional stirring.

After that hour the rice should be as soft and bloomed as it's going to get.  Stir for a bit, and notice the bisque is already getting thicker as the rice gives up it's creamy starch.  Now is one of those seasoning points, and the right time to add your herbs.

Shut off the heat and give the pot a few minutes to cool while you set up your blender, or bring out the immersion blender.  If you are using a countertop blender you will have to work in stages, so have an extra pot and a ladle handy.   Blend the soup (Careful!  That's HOT!) until it turns to silk.  At least 2 minutes, but 3 is better. If in doubt, blend more.  It can't be over-blended. Work through the batches till it's all done and back into the soup pot, and turn the heat back to medium low.

The next thing in is the cream, about a cup full.  Stir or whisk this in gently till completely blended.  From this point on the bisque is a tender creature that doesn't need too much heat or rough treatment.

After the cream is incorporated and the soup comes back to a low simmer (just occasional small bubbles) taste for seasoning and sweet/tart the last time.   Once you adjust the flavor this last time, let the bisque cook gently for another 30 minutes and then it's ready to serve.

We like to garnish with a pat of rich butter, and maybe a small piece of crispy bacon.  Basil is the perfect fresh herb if you go that way.

This is the tomato bisque.  Seafood bisque would use shrimp stock and fresh fish and seafood, but the same method.

The grilled cheese sandwich with cheese inside and out, three kinds of cheese, and lot's of bacon?  That's another story for another day.